CHICAGO — Since his parents opened Irazu Restaurant 34 years ago, Henry Cerdas has noticed one thing about the patrons of the staple of Chicago’s Bucktown neighborhood.
“Our diners always seem happy,” Cerdas said. “That’s because they know that after 34 years, we are consistently delicious.”
Irazu is also unique to the city. It’s the only Costa Rican restaurant in Chicago and a primary destination for those seeking authentic Central American cuisine.
Cerdas’ mother, Miriam, is the driving force behind Irazu. Back in 1991, Miriam Cerdas and her husband, Gerardo, were recent transplants to Chicago, coming to the city from Costa Rica with their three children.
She noticed an empty building at 1865 N. Milwaukee Ave., and immediately envisioned something grand for her and her family.
“There was a ‘for sale’ sign for this building, and she insisted, says, ‘I want to open up a business here,'” Henry Cerdas recalled. “My dad had his reservations, but mom has always been right about these things.”
It wasn’t easy for the Cerdas. Their English was rudimentary, and they didn’t have money for much of a staff.
“I worked 16-hour days, six days a week,” Miriam Cerdas said. “My chef was me.”
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But soon, customers began flocking to Irazu. And those customers remained, even after the Bucktown neighborhood became gentrified.
The restaurant’s menu showcases a variety of traditional dishes, from hearty stews to flavorful seafood.
One popular item is the Casado, a traditional Costa Rican meal, featuring rice, beans, plantains, salad and a choice of protein. Other must-try dishes include the Gallo Pinto, a savory rice and black bean dish, and the Ceviche, a fresh seafood appetizer.
Irazu is also known for its tasty rum cake, heavily drenched in Costa Rican rum. And it’s known for a unique oatmeal shake, created by Miriam Cerdas.
Henry Cerdas took over management of the restaurant a few years ago, after his parents decided to retire.
“They were considering selling, but I insisted on taking over,” Henry Cerdas said. “What I have learned from both mom and dad is that, in America, the American dream is only possible through hard work.”
Beyond its delicious food, Irazu is known for its warm and inviting atmosphere. The restaurant’s decor features vibrant colors and artwork, inspired by Costa Rican culture. The inscription “Pura Vida” is seen on the walls, and on T-shirts sold by the restaurant.
“It means ‘pure life,’ and it’s the mantra of Costa Rica,” Henry Cerdas said.
These days, Henry Cerdas looks at Irazu as a Chicago staple.
“We hold a monopoly in the city, and we’re planning on staying as long as we can. Because Mom always says, ‘either stay the same or better, nothing less,'” he said.
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